Introduction: My name is Kimberly and I want to introduce you to this wonderful sport of surfing and hopefully inspire you to give it a try. I first started coming to Ventura in the sass’s when my Aunt and Uncle lived here and my Aunt owned a Beauty Shop on the corner of Seaward and Pierson. I moved here in 1988. My 2 boys and I have camped and surfed all up and down the California coastline from San Luis Obis to San Diego. I moved away for a while and then moved back home a couple of years ago and started surfing again.
Surfing is like riding a bike, once you learn you will never roger First I’d like to tell you a little bit about why I personally like to surf. Besides the physical benefits from exercise, balancing on a board on top of a wave teaches you to balance in life. You’ll find yourself intuitively knowing how to bend with the breeze and go with the flow. Surfing for me is not Just a sport, but a lifestyle. The best day I can have is when I wake up and the only decision I need to make that day is deciding which bikini to wear, cue my surf gear is always packed and ready to go.
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The thrill of surfing shines through everything you do. It helps you focus and stay in the moment. Surfing connects you to a social group which can be found worldwide, and it also connects you to something greater – the ocean and nature. It’s out in the water that you realize we’re all interconnected and that planet earth is a really, really incredible place to be. Surfing is empowering. As women, we are instinctive caretakers, and if we are empowered, the whole world benefits. We each have the potential to make a positive, lasting impression on our world, no matter how uncertain it may be.
Also, I consider myself to be pretty competitive and surfing fills that need. I will explain a little more about that later. Besides all that surfing is fun!! Transition: Now I will introduce some of our local surfers that have become pros also, how to choose the right surfboard and wetsuit for beginners, and the best local surf spots to learn. Body: 1. Local Pro Surfers I cannot begin this speech without mentioning with honor and respect some of our local surfers that have made a significant contribution to the world of surfing but also have been influential in our local community.
I like to tell you a little about my friend and surf buddy, the founder and CEO of the Surprised Foundation. Jim Morality. He and his friends from Malibu started a company that is dedicated to keeping our beaches clean all over the world one beach at a time. He lives here in Ventura and is one of our Dawn Patrol surfers and that meaner they go out to surf in the early AM hours, before anyone else. He is always there to give a hand to beginners, as long as you stay out of his way in the water…. We all do!!
According to Kelly Slater, world champion many times over, local surfer Dane Reynolds is considered to be one of the best surfers in our area. He lives in Carpentering and surfs almost daily at Emma Wood State Beach. I had the pleasure of meeting him one time and watching his sign my Surfer magazine. Reynolds started surfing at the age of 10 after he moved from Bakersfield to Ventura. It was here that Reynolds first started competing at age 13 and at 16 had dropped out of school to surf. He is competing this year for the World Title, so let’s all watch and cheer on this great local talent.
Finally, I must give recognition to one of local women surfers. Mary Osborne lives up at Solaria Beach, and attended Ventura High. In 2003, became an overnight celebrity by winning the angora division of Mats “Surf Girl’s” competition. She was selected from a pool of over 4,000 other women surfers for the hit reality TV series. In 2003, Mary was also nominated for a Teen Choice Award as “Best Female Athlete”. In her book, Surf Sister, A Woman’s Guide to Surfing with Bliss and Courage, she says, “Surfing is a form of meditation.
One of surfing greatest lessons is about staying calm amidst the chaos. Remember to breathe and to visualize success on each wave. Surfing is about oneness with the ocean, not about battling it. ” A couple of other well-known surfers although not from Ventura are Bethink Hamilton and Alan Blanchard featured in the movie Soul Surfer. Bethink lost her arm in a shark attack in 2003 and went on to win the Woman’s Championship in Hawaii 2 years later. My favorite female surfer is also in that movie, her name is Celia Monotint and she won the 2012 World Title for Best Woman’s Longboats Champion.
Transition: Now that you know a little of our local history, let me tell you how easy it is to get started. 2. Surfboards and wetsuits First of all, surfboards are gender non-specific, there are no boards that are made just for men or women. You do not want to start on a super thin or a short board. The best board to learn on is basically a huge boogie board made of foam, we call this a foamy. My first board was a foamy named was Big Banana. Foam boards are usually about 6′ long, very light and easy to carry and move around.
When you are learning, you need to start on a surfboard that has some width and thickness to it, to stay buoyant. How long depends on a how big you are, the bigger the person the bigger the board should be. I have one thick board that is 9’1″ it’s a little slow but it has a 10″ fin which gives me more speed. My other board is a 9’6″, thinner and lighter, and faster but I have 3 fins on that one and they give the board more stability. If you do not want to be a long boarder that’s okay, but you will get a lot better faster if you use the long board to learn on. A longer board will help you to get the basics down.
Starting on a bigger board will help you progress faster, ride more waves, ride the waves you do catch further, and have more fun! Along with choosing the right surfboard is choosing the right wetsuit. Your average water temperature will determine what wetsuit thickness you should purchase or rent. Wet suits are measured by the thickness of the material it’s made of which is called Neoprene. It’s a good idea to start with a suit that is 3’2. During winter time we switch too 4’3 or for Arctic Surfers, you can buy a 5’3, personally, if it’s that cold I have no desire to surf.
You can also ask the local surfers what they wear. I recommend Ventura Surf Shop; they have been here since the sass’s. You can rent wetsuits and surfboards there or, when you are ready for the real thing, I recommend Homegrown Surf Shop, personal Next, where are the best spots for beginners? 3. Where to surf? You will want to go too beginner friendly surf spot. We are lucky living in Ventura; it’s the perfect place to learn. One of the best places to learn is next to Ventura Pier, in front of the Crown Plaza Hotel, locally known as The Cove.
There are small waves to learn on and sometimes we get to swim with the dolphins and seals. Pretty spectacular!! Our northern beaches have some wonderful surf spots. My favorites are Emma Wood, Solaria and Hobnobs State Beaches. They all have nice sandy beaches and small waves. A couple more things to remember when you go are, go surfing on the right day! You cannot learn when the waves are overhead and coming in quick. You will spend more time and energy paddling out to the waves then riding one. Check your local surf report at Surf line. Mom or the local buoy report and tide reports. Surefire. Com has a live WebMD located on the top of the Crown Plaza Hotel. Transition: Like with life, surfing has its dark side! Surfers that surf the same spots a lot start to feel a little territorial, so how do you handle it? 4. How to Handle the Locals. New people who show up are considered intruders. So, the #1 rule is, be respectful o the locals. If you are a beginner you probably should not surf the same surf spots as the locals, Surfers Point across from the Fairgrounds is the local spot where my friends and I surf.
We can all spot a beginner and some people have come out of the water with broken windshields and flat tires. A good thing to remember is that in surfing, the surfer closest to the curl has priority. Beginners are notorious for Just paddling into anything unaware that someone else has priority. When you are paddling back out it is your responsibility to stay out of the way. The surfer riding he wave usually is the one to prevent the collision because they know how to turn and can avoid you if they are already up and riding. If you do collide try to apologize, and stay the next time.
Don’t be a wave hog! It is better to give a wave than always take a wave. As you get better you will learn where you want to be, and catch more waves, and hopefully give a few waves too beginner. When you are ready to surf with the big boys, Just try to be nice and give them respect. You will find that most of the locals are regular guys and gals who when treated nicely, and with respect will spend in the same way. (Yes, I know there are exceptions). Get to know the locals and you may gain a friend and a surfing buddy. Transition: A few tips on how to surf 5.
How to surf Before going to the beach practice doing pop ups. Lie down on your board and close your eyes and take a few deep breaths to relax, with your hands near your chest and practice going from lying down to popping up to your feet and lead with your right or left foot depending if you are right or let handed. Jump back down and try to repeat until you can do like 20 of these pop ups without stopping. When you are ready to et in the water, you will want to catch your first few waves while lying down on your foam board Just catching the white water Just like boogie boarding.
After you get that down you can practice paddling to catch the wave. To paddle you need to dig down deep and really try to stay smooth and keep the board in a flat. When you feel the snowboarder or skateboarder, you already know what to do once you stand up. Remember it will be harder in the ocean because you will be moving and the water is moving. The closest thing I can compare surfing to would be, riding a horse; you are instantly moving with the water and making adjustments. Please, don’t get discouraged or expect too much of yourself too early.
Practice makes perfect and you must be able to laugh at your own mistakes. Surfing takes a while to get any good at it, but is still fun while you are learning! Transition: I am not here to bore you with a bunch of medical facts and figures however I would like to tell you about a couple other reasons why I like to surf. 6. Health Benefits. When you get up on top of the wave the first thing you feel is an intense adrenaline rush, it’s the fight or flight trigger, you feel like you are on a roller coaster. The second side effect is the dopamine rush, you body natural pain killer.
We all know that men are physically stronger than women and have more stamina however; surfing virtually levels the playing field between men and women. Women actually have an advantage over men simply because we tend to have better core strength. Also, there’s a different bond with your fellow surf sisters. When guys are around, you still find yourself wanting to be tough, and compete but, when it’s Just girls, you feel like you can giggle more and Just have fun. Some of my best surfing days are when I’m UT there with my girlfriends.
Finally, as you can see, it is so simple and easy to get started. I would really like to see everyone in class at least give it a try. Why not be a leader and start a Surf Club here at Ventura College open to all age, race, gender and Grade Point Average. We live in the best place in California to learn. Let this be the summer, that you find the peace and serenity that the sea has to offer. Swim with the dolphins and seals! Thank You Works Cited www. Ossification’s. Com/learn to surf. HTML http://www. Affectionately. Com/articles/article-MO/Mary. HTML